Tuesday, January 28, 2014

High court Tudor Gowns

All things Tudor. Historically accurate Tudor gowns are simply awesome. There is nothing quite like wearing one and feeling like you stepped out of portrait.

Elizabethan Polychrome Waistcoat Recreation. Left Front Panel - Currently in progress.

Hey! Welcome back! I am playing catch up. My Facebook was my personal costuming blog and some of these posts really are just the tip of the iceburg.
So I have set a goal of completing my waistcoat this year, before kingdom A&S 2015. Wish me luck!

 The Color scheme got bigger :) I try not to walk into embroidery stores any more. I'll want to see their stash of Soi Perlee.

 This is really daunting. When starting over again from scratch after embroidering a marathon of one panel, but to consider how awesome it will be when the entire jacket is finished. I had messed up the patterning, but fixed it. Extra lines on the construction, one won't be able to see once the waistcoat is complete and I can live with that!

 I decided a different plan of attack, by doing all color schemes one at a time. It went by really fast.

 Referring to my own color scheme, I will pull out the finished piece and look at it for guidence. I used to do this with the picture from Christies.

 When I got to this point, I thought it would be nice to have a break. So I took one for a couple of months, then picked it up again to do the leaves.

 Starting the Plaited Braid stitch, it really goes by pretty fast.

 This is the current progress to date.
And check this out! The WHOLE picture finally. Its interesting to see the bottom motifs finally.

Elizabethan Polychrome Waistcoat Recreation. Back Panel

Progression of my Elizabethan polychrome waistcoat.
Its alot of hours, already, over 200 hours into it. (I Lost hour count!)
Feedback, questions and comments are appreciated.

http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/ - 50 Meters 3 ply twist silk thread, LOTS of colors.

http://www.berlinembroidery.com/ - Spangles

http://thistle-threads.com/index.html - Gold thread

I was so happy to find this! Its flat! Which means it can be patterned!

Which I did, after using the Tudor Tailor's awesome waist coat pattern to my size. Why do all this work and not wear it?
I squared it up with 1" squares and scaled it down on the paper I printed off, then proceeded to sketch it out on my scaled up drawing.

Tradtionally the prick an pounce method was used, but I have a small child (at this time, she's much older than now) and anything that grabbable and messy shouts more clean up procedures later on. I have to years fine arts training at Traverse Bay Area Intermediate School District. So I thought a light table would be a perfect example. Only problem is I don't have a light table, so plan B.

I enlarged the pattern fr the sleeves and back panel. Plus I am able to turn this over and mirror the front panel, which was traditional in period.

Thread color selection based on the extent example.
I started out with the back as it was the biggest panel. I made a flub though. I didn't pattern the back slit for the gore. Later on during construction of the waistcoat I will have to add that in very carefully.
 Starting to stitch, I hand to learn each stitch from the very beginning. I really started this project with not knowing ANY embroidery stitches. Boy that was a challenge. Most of the first stitches were later replaced later on when my technique got better. But this photo shows the progress.

Kitten help! Believe it or not, she swallowed my embroidery needle and lived! I still have the xray somewhere of the emergency rush to the vet. Surely one of her nine lives was flushed own the drain with that stunt. I was so put out, I didn't pick up the project for a good while. My art could've killed my cat!

Over the course of the next year, and lots of Audible books. Next was the next challenge. Learning the Plaited Braid stitch. Wow. It was the too the point, after being frustrated I asked the Elizabethan Costuming group on Facebook for help. I got classes on skype! and finally learned it. I also had Womens dress patterns of the 17th century which has great step by step instructions as well.

The Trials below

 Finally getting somewhere! Its supposed to look like a bunch of staked upside down pretzles.
 What I learned. Wide Plaited Braid Stitches do NOT work. They look really messy.

Looks like I nailed it! After this project I'll be a pro! At least this is what I tell myself.

 Yup thats me. Rocking it out!

 All the little chain stitched swirls were added on later, as they are time consuming and its easier to go in rythm with one thing at a time.
 All swirls completed, added fine details and small chain stitch vines.
 Finished! I got to add Spangles after that.
 Man! what a year this project was. I managed to impress myself. I was in complete awe.
 Off the frame and somewhere safe, so I can admire it.

All done! Onto the next!