Saturday, March 22, 2014

All the pieces!

Waistcoat madness continues.

One of the most interesting portraitures I have found is of Sir Henry Unton's Narrative from 1596. It shows some women at a Masq at his house.

For more information I reccomend reading Medival clothing and textiles book 2 on elizabethan waistcoat, it is the last chapter and is quite good. Just chock full of information.

Near the right hand corner you can what looks like to be a feast of some sort going on, Its actually a masquerade
"The scenes in the centre of the right-hand side of the composition show Unton’s life at Wadley House; he is depicted sitting in his study, making music, and presiding over a banquet while a masque of Mercury and Diana is performed "

 You can see near the center left hand side of Lady dressed in her masq costume, which is complete with embroidered waistcoat and skirt, her hair is down, and most assuredly perfomers are following them around.

In England Masques were held in defiance of the stuarts rule during Queen Elizabeth's the 1st reign. Each lord and lady would be given a part, but it was taboo for them to actually act, so the players acted for them and the lords and ladies dressed up, as part of their part.  A bit confusing; but over all it makes sense.

However in my long journey I often look at the Margaret Layton portrait and wonder at it, because obviously she isn't wearing it for a masq, but in a rather informal setting; but neither was the waistcoat and design considered courtly garments either. So I am scratching my head at this. I am sure in a year, I will have two theories, one is cemented the other is still a mystery.

So without further ado, I have inked out the rest of the waistcoat panels, and have them dressed and ready for the slate frame when I get ready to work on them. After this right front panel is finished. I will be more than 50% of the way through this project.

Also Note, I have ordered this from the SCA stock clerk. It was written last year by Aimee Kratts.

Here is the summary.   " A monograph for costume historians and historical re-enactors. Author abstract: “Images of English embroidered jackets are available online and in print, but to date no one has published a comparative study of these jackets or a reference book of the shapes.  In this document, I have gathered information about twenty-five late sixteenth/early seventeenth century jackets and jacket fragments to compare the shapes, embroidery patterns and construction details.” Illus with b/w photos & line drawings. Bibliog, list of reference portraits, notes. 58pp, perfect bound. SCA"

 I cannot wait to dive into this new information and read up on it. Finding information and good portraits and paintings is like gold with this project. Each piece I seem to find is like a large puzzle, and sometimes a huge mystery awaiting to be discovered.

 Right front panel - In progress.

 Left front panel finished.
 Back panel finished - Needing some minor rewording for the back gusset.
 All the small pieces, this will most likely be the quickest embroidered pieces that I will ever do. Includes, the collar, sleeve cuffs, gussets and wings.
 Right Sleeve Panel - Marked with an R up at the top. For easy indentification

Left Sleeve Panel.

The sleeves will most likely take the longest, as they are some of the largest pieces of embroidery to this entire project.

Until then,

Happy Embroidery.

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